SEEDED LAWN MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
Gnome lawns are installed using techniques recommended by the Maine Landscape & Nursery Association. The care of a new lawn is crucial and watering is the most important thing you can do for it.
Germination Time: Time will vary – germination is usually complete in 1½ to 3 weeks.
Watering: The lawn must be watered each day during germination and the first two mowings. The idea is that it must not completely dry out during this time period, and that the water attains a depth of 6 to 8 inches. This will allow the roots to grow deeply into the ground and helps to avoid a lawn which is susceptible to drought. In order to get the 6 – 8 inch depth in a medium density loam which is neither sandy nor filled with clay, an inch of water above ground is needed. A good way to ensure that you have watered enough is to place a tuna fish size-can (about 1″ high) on the ground in the area you are watering. Time how long it takes to fill the can and use that time as your daily watering time throughout this period.
The best time of day to water is early to mid morning and late afternoon (no later than 6 o’clock). Try to avoid mid-day watering as evaporation loss is greatest at this time. Some literature and experience suggest that early evening watering may also promote disease as the soil surface will remain damp all night giving greater mold susceptibility.
There are no set rules for watering lawns as conditions vary from site to site. Factors such as soil type, temperature, wind humidity, and type of turf being used are some of the variables. You need to be observant and react to changing conditions.
Your lawn should be watered when it needs it – when the soil starts to dry out and before the grass wilts. Two signs of water deprivation are: (1) a bluish-green tinge to the grass, and (2) footprints stay matted instead of bouncing back.
Professionally installed underground irrigation systems are the most convenient method of watering. If you are using sprinklers, make sure to overlap sprinkler patterns to avoid dry spots.
Mowing: Mow your new lawn when grass has reached a height of 2½ -3 inches. Avoid removing more than 1/3 of the growth. Never let the mower height be less than 2 inches. If the soil is too soft or the grass too loosely “knit” to mow without damage, wait, then mow in stages (again never removing more than 1/3 of the growth) until desired height is reached. Use a freshly sharpened rotary mower and bag clippings the first few mowings for best results.
Drought: During periods of extreme heat or drought, the following should be observed: (1) do not apply fertilizer; (2) mow grass higher and less frequently, and (3) water without runoff when lawn exhibits need.
Hay: Remove any clumps of hay that remain. The remaining hay will break down and provide organic matter.
Fertilizing: Newly seeded lawns will probably not need fertilizer right away however if the lawn is looking yellow it is probably due to the watering and should be fertilized. We recommend that you try an organic approach to cultivating your lawn. Go to safelawns.org or yardscaping.org/lawn for more information.
Liming: A soil test is the surest way to know if your lawn needs lime and how much. One excellent resource is the Cooperative Extension Service. Contact them for a soil test kit and instructions on testing. Generally, Maine lawns are low in pH. Optimum is 6.5 pH. Application rates should not exceed 50 lbs/1000 sq. ft.
SODDED LAWN MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
Sod lawns are also installed using techniques recommended by the Maine Landscape & Nursery Association. Watering is the most important thing you can do for it. Sod has its own special needs when it comes to watering and nutrition.
Watering: Your sodded lawn must be DEEP WATERED every day until you have mowed it two times. This will allow the roots to grow deeply into the ground and helps to avoid a lawn which is susceptible to drought. In order to get the 6 – 8 inch depth in a medium density loam which is neither sandy nor filled with clay, an inch of water above ground is needed. A good way to ensure that you have watered enough is to place a tuna fish size-can (about 1″ high) on the ground in the area you are watering. Time how long it takes to fill the can and use that time as your daily watering time throughout this period. The best time of day is early to mid morning and late afternoon (no later than 6 o’clock), however new sod can dry out in just a few hours. This may mean watering in the mid day. A good way to see if the sod is getting enough water is pick up the a few corners around the lawn and see what the moisture is like.
There are no set rules for watering lawns as conditions vary from site to site. Factors such as soil type, temperature, wind humidity, and type of turf being used are some of the variables. You need to be observant and react to changing conditions.
Your lawn should be watered when it needs it – when the soil starts to dry out and before the grass wilts. Two signs of water deprivation are: (1) a bluish-green tinge to the grass, and (2) footprints stay matted instead of bouncing back.
Professionally installed underground irrigation systems are the most convenient method of watering. If you are using sprinklers, make sure to overlap sprinkler patterns in order to avoid dry spots.
Mowing: Mow your new lawn when grass has reached a height of 2½ -3 inches. Avoid removing more than 1/3 of the growth. Never let the mower height be less than 2 inches. If the soil is too soft or the grass too loosely “knit” to mow without damage, wait, then mow in stages (again never removing more than 1/3 of the growth) until desired height is reached. Use a freshly sharpened rotary mower for best results.
Drought: During periods of extreme heat or drought, the following should be observed: (1) do not apply fertilizer; (2) mow grass higher and less frequently, and (3) water without runoff when lawn exhibits need.
Fertilizing: Newly seeded lawns will probably not need fertilizer right away however if the lawn is looking yellow it is probably due to the watering and should be fertilized. We recommend that you try an organic approach to cultivating your lawn. Go to safelawns.org or yardscaping.org/lawn for more information.
Liming: A soil test is the surest way to know if your lawn needs lime and how much. One excellent resource is the Cooperative Extension Service. Contact them for a soil test kit and instructions on testing. Generally, Maine lawns are low in pH. Optimum is 6.5 pH. Application rates should not exceed 50 lbs/1000 sq. ft.
If you would like a quote for mowing your lawn please give us a call and ask for Chace.